According to Lonely Planet –
Winter is the time to get closer to the real Essaouira, when the wind howls at its strongest and the waves smash against the city’s defences…
– and they are not wrong. Whilst the daytime temperature is still very pleasant – think a warm May day in the UK – it drops at night time and can be very cold. Think layers when you pack 😉 But, worth knowing about the most, is the wind. Not for nothing is Essaouira known as the Wind City of Africa. The coastal wind – alizee, or taros in Berber – blows in from the Atlantic and in January, can create amazingly theatrical conditions. Many riads are situated within the old medina walls, facing the Atlantic, and you need to be prepared for the pounding of the waves and the roaring of the wind, especially during the night. Your dreams will take on quite a surreal quality!
The ramparts, sea-side, are the best parts of town to catch the waves. Brave souls actually clamber up onto the turrets and challenge the waves – we prefer to watch the ocean action from one of the bars high up, and set a little further back…
Winter sunsets are spectacular in Essaouira – from azure blue skies, to fiery reds/yellows/oranges to inky blackness, in the matter of an hour…
Winter is also perfect as less tourists visit – although don’t think you’ll have the palce to yourself. Essaouira is a busy, working port first and foremost. There’s still plenty of hustle and bustle and everywhere is still open – unlike many Eurpoean resorts which tend to close down over winter, you’ll still find top notch restaurants open, riads still ready for visitors (and many with cosy fires – bonus!) and during the day, whatever you need to buy, you’ll be able to find in the souks and markets in the medina.
And, because day time temperatures are still warm, you can experience the beautiful, expansive horse-shoe shaped bay, relatively undisturbed. Apart from the horses, camel and super cool surfers…
